The local bottleshop is making a comeback.
After years of decline, a new breed of neighbourhood wine shop that sells boutique wines to take away or drink in-house for a small corkage fee is filling the void created by the wine warehouse boom.
Like the wine bars in Paris, these shops encourage people to stay and drink, offering succinct menus and wine-friendly snacks, such as charcuterie and cheese.
The better ones have a long list of wines being poured by the glass, which changes regularly – the ultimate try-before-you-buy experience. Here’s a list of my current favourites.
City Wine Shop
Busy and bustling, you’ll often find winemakers propping up the bar on weekend afternoons when the place is a bit quieter. Wines by the glass are always interesting – it’s hard to go past ordering a different wine each round – and there’s a wall of wine for retail sale opposite the bar with corkage set at $20 to drink it on the premises. The food is kept simple, ticking all the right wine-friendly boxes: terrine, rillettes and small cheese selections are constants on the menu.
» 159 Spring Street, Melbourne.
Bellota
The opening of Bellota, next door to the Prince Wine Store, was greeted with much excitement by wine-loving Weekly Review staff – our office is on the same South Melbourne block. The rotating wine list is put together by a different staff member each time and, if nothing tickles your fancy, step next door and browse the Prince’s shelves. Wines under $80 attract $15 corkage, while there’s no cost for anything more than $80. The wine-friendly menu includes a minute steak that takes me back to France every time I order it.
» 181 Bank Street, South Melbourne.
Union Street Wine
This new wine shop, down a small street in the shadows of the Sporting Globe Hotel, has a strong representation of Geelong wines on its well-thought-out list. The ubiquitous shiny red meat slicer sits behind the long bar, delivering quality cuts of Spanish jamon and salami. There’s a variety of cheeses, too. Prop up the bar or take a seat in the sunshine at the little table out the front.
» 8 Union Street, Geelong.
Harry & Frankie
Part-owner Tom Hogan gave up the plum job of head sommelier at Daylesford’s Lake House to open up Harry & Frankie. Wines are focused on family-owned estates and, along with beer on draught, there are a couple of wines on tap as well. Corkage is just $10 a bottle to drink in and wines can also be bought from
» 317 Bay Street, Port Melbourne.
Persillade
Persillade is housed in the site that was Europa Cellars and owned by Europa’s former manager, Aidan Raftery. Choose from a range of interesting wines from Australia and farther afield, most of which are under $50, to take home or drink ($10 corkage per bottle) with something from the compact menu. Persillade is open for breakfast and there’s a children’s menu, too.
» 150 Wellington Parade, East Melbourne.
Gertrude Street Enoteca
Before Gertrude Street became a hip dining destination, there was Gertrude Street Enoteca. Its list of wines by the glass changes daily and generally includes interesting natural wines – co-owner James Broadway has been at the forefront of Melbourne’s natural wine scene since day dot – and a great list of wines adorns the walls. Chef and co-owner Brigitte Hafner’s menu is geared to be eaten with a glass of wine.
» 229 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy.
