Think of New Zealand wine and two grapes come to mind – sauvignon blanc and pinot noir. There is, of course, greater diversity to the wines of the land of the long white cloud.
A range of alternative grape varieties have been planted up and down the country and at a recent tasting of wines from all corners of the country, it was the aromatic whites that really stood out.
It makes perfect sense that aromatics should shine – the greatest mark New Zealand has made on the wine world is the aromatic sauvignon blanc. But where sauvignon blanc production is concentrated around the Marlborough region, other aromatics are thriving across the country.
The key to the success of these styles is New Zealand’s cool climate, which allows grapes to fully ripen while retaining good levels of natural acidity.
“We’re a little skinny country with warm days that really cool down at night – the grapes don’t get too hot in the sun,” says Saint Clair winemaker Hamish Clark.
“The whole natural acidity is key. It’s what gives us our [aromatic wines’] retention of fruit flavour.”
Keep an eye out for the following aromatic varieties in the New Zealand section at your local wine shop.
GrÜner Veltliner
Austrian in origin, “gru vee” is an aromatic white with perfumed and peppery aromas and full-bodied mineral, citrus and peach flavours. “Grüner veltliner is a cerebral wine for me,” says Marlborough-based Clark. “We have similar climates and growing conditions to Austria and it’s exciting that grüner is being planted everywhere from Hawkes Bay to central Otago.”
GewÜrztraminer
This pink-coloured grape, a native of France, has hallmark lychee and ginger characters and, when grown in cool climates, its high alcohol levels are balanced with good acid levels.
“Gewürtz does well from Hawkes Bay down to Waipara in the South Island,” Clark says.
AlbariÑo
A native of Galicia in Spain and just over the border in northern Portugal, albariño is characterised by a saline minerality, along with fruity and floral characters of citrus, peach and green apple.
“There are a few people having a play with albariño. They’re only small plantings and it’s an alternative white variety that shows real promise.”
bthomas@theweeklyreview.com.au
