Fashion at the spring racing carnival is a nod to dressing at its most vivacious – a people’s catwalk where the beauty and colour creates as much frisson as the spectacle on the turf.
Melburnians embrace dressing up for a day at the races with an exuberance that is unmatched anywhere in the world, including Kentucky in the US and England’s Royal Ascot.
The city racecourses Caulfield, Moonee Valley and Flemington, which host rich group 1 events across the 65-day carnival, each have a distinctive fashion style.
Well-heeled racegoers who take their appearance as seriously as picking a winner understand the three tracks call for a different approach to look the part.
Flemington is the home of the sport’s purists, where some of the best racing in the world takes place, and the style has a grandeur and a classicism.
Smart tailoring and ladylike modesty, including hemlines that kiss the knee and covered shoulders, is the fashion decree at the Melbourne Cup carnival, demanding pieces such as designer Carla Zampatti’s monochrome striped dresses or the simple elegance of a Morrison curved-hem frock.
For men, morning suits are customary on Derby day and worn by dignitaries to the Cup, and an exquisite suit from Melbourne menswear institution Harrolds, or the European restraint of Ermenegildo Zegna, is always faultless.
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Switch the party to Caulfield and the youthful racegoers adopt daring prints and flirtatious hemlines, and men strut in slim-fit Calibre or Farage suits in eye-catching colour and slick accents, such as chrome tie bars and collar pins.
Caulfield is where contemporary girls flirt in a hot-pink Camilla and Marc trouser suit or a Thurley sensual ruffled red silk gown or dress with a fringed hem.
At Moonee Valley, an amphitheatre suburban track, the look is less flashy and more like a picnic race meet.
Relaxed suiting, whether in custom-made linen by celebrated tailors P. Johnson or off-the-rack Ted Baker, complements vibrant garden-party florals and girlish lace by Sacha Drake, who specialises in fitting all body shapes, and Melbourne-based favourite Yeojin Bae.
Melbourne’s best dressed racegoers – recognised for their impeccable taste – know it is important to be contemporary but in step with the traditions of fine racewear.
Thurley fashion designer Helen O’Connor, whose delicately feminine dresses are a favourite of the racing set, says tradition can be translated in a way that is
modern and relevant.
“I think this year it will be all about clean and classic architectural lines, which should also reflect in headwear,” O’Connor says.
“Fortunately this year’s trend for more conservative midi-length hemlines and demure styling goes hand in hand with racewear tradition.
“The trick to looking elegant yet edgy is to select one piece within your outfit that is modern and fashion-forward and then pare it back with subtle pieces.”
O’Connor says her favourite race-day look is David Jones ambassador Jessica Gomes’ pencil skirt and flouncing jacquard top, by Thurley, at last year’s Caulfield Cup.
“I think matching two-piece ensembles will be big this carnival as an alternative to the ever-popular dress,” O’Connor says.
Melbourne tailor Tom Riley, of P. Johnson, who suits up many discerning men for the races, recommends achieving a different mood for various race days by switching up ties and pocket squares.
“Importantly, the tie and pochette should not match exactly, because this looks contrived,” he says.
Riley, considered one of Melbourne’s most dashingly dressed and influential men, said cream and oatmeal linen, denim-coloured cotton-linen and blue tropical-weight wools have been popular among his spring-racing clientele.
He said jackets without shoulder pads and lightweight unstructured cuts are in vogue for gents this spring.
“Exercise some restraint for understated elegance, rather than exaggerated flamboyance,” he says.
“Well-fitted suits should skim over the body and not be tight or, at the same rate, not too capacious.
“It would be over-the-top to have too many suits for the different days, so just playing with shirt, tie and pochette is easy enough.
“The key is that it should look fresh and not corporate.”
Seven news journalist Jacqui Felgate, who owns shares in racehorses with her husband, Michael, the media manager for online bookmaker Centrebet, prudently plans her outfits months in advance.
She has hats custom made, including by Armadale milliner Kerrie Stanley, and often rotates dresses around standout headpieces. “I think Caulfield Cup is a great time to try something on-trend,” Felgate says.
“Moonee Valley is probably the most casual of the three tracks, so you can have a bit of fun with an out-there pattern or an edgy hat.”
Chris Schaerf, owner of high-end Fitzroy men’s shoe boutique Double Monk, said gents can play with accessories to creative alternatives with one classic suit.
“Accessories can be fun but that doesn’t mean a tie with piano keys on it,” he says.
“Introduce a bit of colour with a nice silk-knit tie, silk pocket square and boutonnière.
“Unless you want to look like a bogan, leave your surf sunglasses at home.
“If you attend the races for more than one day, I recommend wearing a different suit and shoes. Just like your shirt and underpants, they need to be rotated.”
Schaerf says off-the-peg suiting should be taken to a tailor for a better fit.
“Having sleeves and trousers at the right length makes a world of difference and is more important than any label,” he says.
For children at the carnival’s traditional family day, Stakes day at Flemington, pint-sized style comes in the form of pretty embroidered or frilled dresses in pastels, suits in lighter tones and dandy bow ties.
Designer Megan Park meets the season’s embellishment trend with daytime-appropriate beaded girls’ dresses at her Armadale boutique and, for young men, Seed gingham shirts and chinos are a sure bet.
For more stories on Spring Racing Carnival 2013, visit theweeklyreview.com.au
