SPECIAL: From real life to runway

Internationally renowned fashion designer Toni Maticevski didn’t have to wait long to discover his calling in life.

From as far back as the age of four, the son of Macedonian migrants can recall doodling dresses on pieces of scrap paper.

“It was an escape,” reflects the now 37-year-old.

“It clicked when I saw the Balenciaga retrospective at the National Gallery of Victoria when I was about 13. There was a job and it was called fashion design.”

Discovering the romance of Italian designer Valentino’s creations “sealed the deal” for him, says Maticevski.

The fantasy world of fashion was a far cry from where he spent his early childhood in the gritty suburbs of Footscray and Altona in Melbourne’s west.

But Maticevski looks back on his upbringing fondly and says it equipped him with the street smarts he would need to succeed in his future career.

“It definitely wasn’t boring or predictable,” he recalls.

“You had to always be on your toes and be aware of things happening around you because shit happened really quickly and easily and you had to adjust.

“I think growing up in the west gives you a perspective on real life and survival, which has helped me survive in business and in my work.

“I remember always dreaming of Valentino and Balenciaga – dressing glamorous and beautiful women and making them feel special and noticed.”

It didn’t take long for Maticevski to be recognised in his own right. He studied fashion at RMIT University where he graduated in 1997 and won a sought-after placement with Donna Karan in New York.

Later he would bypass an extended stay with Karan in favour of moving to Paris to work at famous fashion house Cerruti for two years.

Maticevski returned to Australia in 2001 to start his own business and, oddly enough, he found himself back where it all began. He set up a studio in Yarraville’s industrial precinct opposite the Mobil refinery and has been there ever since.

“It just happened,” the designer explains of his headquarters.

“I didn’t plan it. It was the best option at the time and I love that it’s become a hub for creatives now. Artists and designers and creatives have all made the jump to the other side.”

Maticevski still hand-stitches every couture gown himself, and he loves being in the thick of the often- laborious process.

A recent bridal dress involved cutting up three different sets of lace and re-doing them. It took more than 400 hours to complete.

“I love that it gets out of control easily,” Maticevski reveals.

“It gets exciting thinking of a stupid little idea and going with it. I love that I can connect to people’s desires and dreams of feeling amazing and sexy and beautiful and special.

“My hands pretty much touch everything that leaves my work space.”

Maticevski is happy making clothes for members of the fashion-loving public and you can pick up pieces from his exquisite collections at either of the big department stores, but he’s best known for
dressing the stars.

He designed the wedding dress of Jennifer Hawkins and tells a story about how Kim Kardashian wore one of his pieces to the Grammys one year. In international circles Maticevski is known as a big-time player in the cut-throat fashion game.

But perhaps his best- known supporter is Australian actress Abbie Cornish.

“When Abbie wore my dress to the Cannes Film Festival for Bright Star she looked incredible. But it was her moment and it was nice to be part of that moment for her. Sometimes it’s more about the connection to that person and their body of work rather than the fact you can dress any celebrity.”

Maticevski describes himself as a loyal and honest person who gets excited by seeing his customers happy.

“I think, for me, growing a business is about being transparent and light-hearted and having respect for everyone you work with. People then want to help you and see you grow.”

Last year, his creations featured as part of the National Gallery of Victoria’s largest-ever exhibition, Melbourne Now.

Maticevski’s sculptural work in neoprene, silk and resin was suspended in the stairwell at the Ian Potter Centre at Federation Square, and one of his dresses featured in Bendigo Art Gallery’s Modern Love exhibition.

After being in the game for 14 years, Maticevski says he measures success by happiness and the amount of stress in his life. “It’s always hard when you have to create something new and inspire your audience. I think if it were easy then you’d probably be jumping off someone else’s ideas to help you.

“Design is fun. It’s a small part of the job, but it’s draining and exhilarating. There are so many facets to a brand now and I love working on all of them. I think success is staying consistent and being unexpected.”

Maticevski recently returned home after a visit to Paris where he spent 10 days spruiking his collection for the new season sales.

“I love Paris. I think it’s nearly every designer’s ultimate destination to live and work there. I have so many memories of friends who have really become family there now. Knowing the city and seeing it change has been amazing.”

The designer says he doesn’t find time for much else besides his career and a little down time on the couch with his partner. He’s always looking to the future and to getting bigger and better.

“I dream big all the time and so there are always ideas on the cards that evolve and excite. I’m just happy to see where they take us.”