The World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Coast is famous for close encounters with whale sharks, the world’s largest fish.
But this 260-kilometre reef off Western Australia’s coral coast (1200 kilometres north of Perth) is also a haven for humpbacks, pygmy blue whales, turtles, dugongs and manta rays, among many hundreds of submarine species. And the warm desert climate of mid-north WA makes it the perfect antidote to winter blues.
WHALE SHARKS
An estimated 300-500 whale sharks migrate to WA every March and April for Ningaloo’s coral-spawning extravaganza, a full-moon phenomenon that keeps these massive creatures fat and happy for months. The semi-official whale shark season runs from March until July, but tourist operators say the big fish routinely hang around until October. Book an “eco-tour” during these off-season months for a chance to swim with whale sharks and also to see humpbacks, manta rays and dugongs feeding and frolicking. Staff at the main tour companies will make sure you get the most out of the experience.
Meeting a whale shark face to face is an awesome adventure. They can grow up to 13 metres or more, so you can imagine the shock of that first encounter on the outer reef. But these animals are so placid that fear gives way to curiosity. One of the great wildlife encounters.
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Ningaloo Safari
A day out with Dave Mongan combines adventures on land and in the water. His 14-seat customised Oka 4WD takes groups on full-day tours into Cape Range National Park, a harsh country of stone and spinifex where arid WA meets the Indian Ocean. Visit canyons and gorges, the Harold E. Holt Naval Communication Station – where US naval personnel once eavesdropped on enemy ciphers – and the Vlamingh Head Lighthouse at sunset. Marvel at black-footed rock wallabies in Yardie Creek and swim with turtles in the serene Turquoise Bay. Mongan and his wife Teresa have run their tours for more than 10 years with, as he says, “no complaints so far”.
STAY HERE
Novotel Ningaloo Resort
The best address in the small town of Exmouth (population 2500) is this smart two-storey resort on Town Beach. Behind the Novotel’s eye-catching architecture of pink limestone, corrugated iron, timber and glass lie comfortable, modern rooms that open to sea breezes and the sound of waves breaking on shore. Most balconies face either the swimming pool or the Indian Ocean; some rooms have kitchen facilities for longer stays.
Sal Salis
Nestled in the dunes of Cape Range National Park, Sal Salis combines unexpected luxury with environmental awareness. Its nine tents are solar-powered and rainwater-fed but there’s no sense of deprivation in its handmade jarrah beds, posh organic linen or en suite bathrooms. Exhilarating days spent exploring Australia’s largest fringing coral reef or the rugged landscapes of Cape Range are rewarded with sunset cocktails, gourmet dinners and amazing stargazing.
» For great rates on other places to stay in Ningaloo, visit www.hotels.com
EAT HERE
Grace’s Tavern
» (08) 9949 1000
Thursdays are curry night at Grace’s Tavern, a typical country pub with big-screen TV and a subcontinental chef who whips up a mean rogan josh. On other nights, pizzas and proteins rule. Open daily 5-10pm and weekdays for counter lunches.
Whalers Restaurant
Whalers Restaurant in the town centre is deservedly popular for outdoor dining on local seafood. Paul Minniear’s New Orleans gumbo of local fish, prawns, mussels, soft-shell crab and smoked sausage is a force to be reckoned with, in the tastiest possible way. Open for breakfast, too, from 9am.
Mantarays restaurant
At the Novotel, Mantarays Restaurant has a contemporary fit-out and beach-friendly menu of chilled Exmouth prawns, local snapper in laksa sauce and risotto of WA seafoods. The bar’s not bad either.
MORE
» Visit lastminute.com.au/wa for details on the Coral Coast and information about flights, hotels, car hire and activities.
» Qantas and Jetstar fly from Melbourne to Perth and on to Learmonth, from where it’s a 20-minute drive to Exmouth.
